TOUR REPORT
Gute Reise
Tempesta’s Trip to Germany
by Gwyn Roberts
On Wednesday, April 6th, eighteen members of Tempesta di Mare and our Managing Director/Tour Manager Ulrike Shapiro boarded a chartered bus in South Philadelphia and headed to Newark to catch a plane to Germany.
This was a first. Tempesta has toured since 1996 when our first CD of Veracini Recorder Sonatas was released, and we have been to Europe twice before, to premiere the Weiss lute concerti at the 2000 Prague Spring Festival and for a German tour in 2009 that included a concert at the famed Göttingen Handel Festival. But all of those earlier trips were with our chamber ensemble. Traveling as an orchestra is an entirely different operation. Hence the bus.
This tour was all about the music of Johann Friedrich Fasch, the Bach-contemporary whose orchestral music we have been premiering, recording and championing for the past four years. Our anchor concert for this tour would be in Zerbst, the town in Eastern Germany where Fasch worked for most of his life, and where we would play an all-Fasch concert for a room full of Fasch experts and enthusiasts at the International Fasch Festival. We were the first non-European orchestra ever invited to perform at this festival, which draws experts from around the globe and audiences from the entire region, so the stakes were extra-high.
After landing in Berlin on Thursday morning, we hopped on another charter bus and traveled south for two hours to Zerbst. We moved into our home-base lodgings at Domäne Badetz, an historic hunting lodge and farm outside the city that has been turned into a comfortable hotel with an excellent restaurant. The proprietor and his staff took excellent care of us, serving up feasts consisting almost entirely of food raised on the premises, supplemented with game hunted in the surrounding woods.
Friday was a day off, and many of our group hopped on the train to visit Bach’s church in nearby Leipzig or to see the sights of Magdeburg, where Telemann was born. Richard and I attended the morning musicology sessions at the Fasch festival, and yet another group took a walk in the beautiful, bucolic surroundings of our home in Badetz. We also caught a few concerts at the Fasch festival.
On Saturday, we boarded our bus in the morning and drove two hours into the Harz mountains to the beautiful medieval Michaelstein Abbey, outside Magdeburg, for our first concert. We rehearsed in the hall, then split into two groups to eat at the only two restaurants in the area: a fish place, specializing in various preparations of the local trout, and a restaurant with a more varied menu, including herbs and vegetables from the Kloster’s historic garden and an awesome selection of fancy cakes.
Our concert that night was sold out, and we played one of our best performances ever. The crowd came together in a chorus of rhythmic clapping at the end to encourage us to play an encore. We finished the evening with a Fasch fugue that coincidentally takes the theme from Rocky as its subject—perfect for South Philadelphia’s baroque orchestra. The writeup in the local press called our show “a spectacular concert.” Why, thank you!
On Sunday, we had a much shorter bus ride from Badetz into Zerbst for our concert at the Fasch Festival. Our performance was in the Katharina-Saal, named for Catherine the Great, who grew up in the castle right next door. We paused on the way in to photograph Eve and Edmond wearing their fantastic Fasch outfits, standing under an appropriate street sign (see insert). Then, into the hall for a warmup and our final show. We played another of our very finest performances that afternoon, and the audience responded warmly once again, clapping until we rewarded them with that Rocky-themed encore.
Our hosts from the Fasch Festival joined us that evening for a celebratory feast back at Badetz, including much good German beer and more than a few glasses of eau-de-vie distilled from pears and herbs from the property. Then, off to bed, and up again at dawn to board the 5AM bus back to the Berlin airport.
Some of us stayed on for a few more days or weeks to visit friends and/or see the sights. Richard and I dove into the music archives of the Berlin Staatsbibliothek for the rest of the week to get new repertoire for upcoming seasons.
It was a whirlwind of a tour and a huge success. Check our website for two rave reviews, and peruse our Facebook page for more photos and commentary.
We can’t wait to do it again!
Gwyn Roberts is Artistic Co-Director of Tempesta di Mare.